Swag Men: How the Clothes of Mad Men Changed Television and Our World

Before I had any inclination to watch or understand it, I genuinely believed that the new television sensation ‘Mad Men’ was about fashion.  You can’t blame me, considering that every Sunday my mom raved not about the characters but how fabulous the costumes that “Don” and “Joan” had worn were, or that each article I saw in USA Today or Rolling Stone emphasized Betty Draper’s clothes over plot notes. While I eventually learned the advertising nature of the show, it is still impossible to deny the sheer power of the clothes in Mad Men- after all, nothing that Walter White or Dexter Morgan has done has had anywhere near the impact of what Don Draper and friends WEAR.

The 60s have come roaring back, and the old look is the new look

Image:http://www.google.com/imgres?num=10&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=677&tbm=isch&tbnid=ewfJWsLugmPz0M:&imgrefurl=http://thefashpack.onsugar.com/

A lot of theories have been generated about why Don Draper and the executives at Sterling Cooper are what “every man wants to be.”  Popular ones include the women, the drinks, the money, and the status.  But money and drinking are cross professional and generational, and adultery isn’t exactly glamorous anymore.  But the resurgence in 1960s wear that led Banana Republic and Express to create their whole fall lines after the fashions of ‘Mad Men?’  That can’t be a coincidence.  Clothes are everything that these men embody: the quality of clothes points to their wealth and position, their style lends to social situations like drinking, and their exuberant swagger from their fancy fashions leads to attraction from women.  The snugger fits, better ties and undershirts, and contrasting colors have been ripped off of AMC and put on every stylish man today. The fashions of women like Joan and Betty are what makes these characters truly universal- yes, both are beautiful and relatable, but in very different ways. The thread connecting this admirable appearance is the 1960s combinations of tight dresses, subtle accessories, and striking colors that have infiltrated 21^st century society after years of grunge jeans and shiny, post 9/11 era overexuberance.

The characters of Mad Men exude fashion sense that has crossed into our world.  Swag! 

Image credit: http://www.cnn.com/2009/SHOWBIZ/TV/08/13/mad.men.fashion/index.html

The characters and plot of Mad Men have certainly become memorable, but not on the sheer level of something like The Sopranos or The West Wing. The everlasting power of this show comes when First Lady Michelle Obama spends her time around the inauguration of her husband wearing one strap dresses inspired by Christina Hendricks treads on the show.  It is when Ask Men models a style guide for their large readership after the suits in the show.  And it is reflected on a personal level for me, when I went prom suit shopping.  I was dismayed to find that Banana Republic’s Mad Men line of blue suits was far too expensive for my blood, but when I combined another Mad Men navy blue line from Billy London with a pink shirt and colored bow tie from my father’s 1960 collection, I was quickly the best dressed man at the prom.  Long gone are the days of oversized, shiny suits and baggy dresses from the Steve Harvey collection.  The 1960s have come roaring back, and now the entire planet has become GQ and Vanity Fair. We may never have the drinks, the money, the lovers, or the ads, but with the clothes, we can all be Mad Men. 

Links referenced:

http://www.askmen.com/fashion/trends_700/742_mad-men-style.html

http://blogs.amctv.com/mad-men/fashion-file/

http://www.forbes.com/sites/leahbourne/2012/03/22/the-mad-men-fashion-effect/

http://www.fabsugar.com/Banana-Republic-Mad-Men-Collection-Spring-2012-Pictures-21871047

The Oh, So Swanky Bert Cooper

Bert Cooper, without a doubt, is one of the only male characters on Mad Men that does not let the concept of  ‘being professional’ stop him from expressing his eccentric style.  Bert's colorful clothing and unconventional art shows that his style approach is very progressive in comparison to the other men at Sterling Cooper. From Argyle socks to modern art, Mr. Cooper finds a way to add a contemporary look to the Sterling Cooper work place.

Image Credit:  http://www.deoveritas.com/blog/socks-are-underrated/

 

A manner, in which Bert depicts his contemporary style, is with the clothing that he wears around the office.  Mr. Cooper’s use of color and patterns shows that he is not afraid to take a risk. He finds a way to make business attire fun and stylish. Argyle, a popular pattern for Mr. Cooper, is known to add a preppy style to any outfit. Bert wears sweaters and socks that illustrate this argyle pattern constantly around the office. In addition to his choice of patterns, Mr. Cooper tends to be the only person in the office that always wears a bow tie rather than a necktie. Bow ties are notorious for formal events and bringing an outfit together in a classy way. This unique, classy persona is what makes Mr. Cooper, Mr. Cooper.

Throughout the show, another way that Bert expresses his individuality is with his admiration for modern art. Bert appreciates artwork that the other men at the ad agency wouldn’t find intriguing, which shows his individuality in comparison to all the other men. Bert is able to portray his approval for the art by displaying several pieces throughout the offices, including the conference rooms where the men discuss copy. This means that Mr. Cooper is able to influence the other men with his style throughout the office with these unique pieces of art. 

Image Credit: http://acculturated.com/2012/09/25/mark-rothko-the-tragedy-and-the-ecstasy/

Mr. Cooper is one of the only men on Mad Men that doesn’t let wearing a suit get in the way of showing off his personality.  His unique persona is what adds personality to the Sterling Cooper work place. His artistic decisions influence all characters on the show because Mr. Cooper makes a point to have everyone notice his artwork. Without Bert Cooper, Sterling Cooper employees would not have this artistic atmosphere surrounding them.

Links Referenced:
http://elizabethandliz.wordpress.com/2012/08/23/how-to-buy-art-like-bert-cooper/

http://www.examiner.com/article/the-pattern-series-argyle

http://www.squidoo.com/argyle

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bow_tie 

While Mad Men captivates intellectuals, historians, and UW 20 students, it surprisingly attracts a number of high-end fashion designers with its array of fabulous costumes. In his article “A Style – Setting Show” from The Wall Street Journal, Ray Smith discusses the large number of fashion designers who diligently watch Mad Men for creative ideas for their fashion lines. They often watch the show twice; once for the fashion, and once for the plot.

The women of Mad Men have two distinct styles. The career women tend to wear tight pencil skirts, fitted sweaters, and sheath dresses, which more than likely are worn to attract attention from the men in the office. The suburban housewives wear motherly pouf – style dresses in public. The men wore slim suits, slim – fitting white shirts, skinny ties, and pocket squares.



Image credits: Dolce & Gabbana Fall '08 from Style.com



Image credit: http://bbright.blogspot.com/2010_11_01_archive.html

Both Mr. Som and Michael Kors have based runway collection on Mad Men. Michael Kors said, “The wardrobes are exquisite and the attention to detail is beyond forensic.” It is surprising how the style of the 1960’s is coming back into fashion. The love of Mad Men fashion has trickled down from high - end fashion lines to stores where the average American would shop. Banana Republic had Mad Men themed displays for its stores and even offered a lucky fan a walk on role on the show. Mad Men has revolutionized how we look at 60’s fashion. It has brought the look of the 60s back to the forefront of fashion. There is evidence of 60’s fashion everywhere you look. In magazines, runway shows, and billboards. Tory Burch and her design team have utilized Mad Men for inspiration for her highly popular silk tunics, dresses, and other products. It was a huge surprise to Mad Men’s costume designer, Ms. Bryant that the show’s fashion would take off like it has. I may just go out and buy myself some Mad Men inspired clothes.

Citation: Smith, Ray A. "A Style-Setting Show." The Wall Street Journal. 7 Aug. 2009. Web. 13 Feb. 2011.

And You Might Consider Wearing a Scarf

The wardrobes of "Mad Men" are adored.  They’ve turned the phrase “Mad Men” in to an adjective used to describe any clothing deemed 60s chic.  Countless articles have been written about them.  They’ve even sparked clothing lines at Banana Republic (“Mad About Style”) and a Don Draper suit at Brooks Brothers.  The attention to detail evident in Wiener’s work is one of the many reasons why so many are drawn to his character’s clothes, fans and actors alike.

“The clothing is just amazing.  Her hats alone, you could write a book,” said Alison Brie in an interview with Nylon Magazine.  The interview went on to reveal that she couldn’t take anything from Trudy’s wardrobe because the show often repeats clothes characters have worn.  “I’ve tried to weasel out some gowns, but I haven’t stolen anything [because] if I’ve worn it, it stays in Trudy’s closet.  Which is something I love.’"

Mad Men recently auctioned off select set and wardrobe pieces for charity, including Joan’s dress which sold for $1,324 and Betty’s dress which went for $2,025.  The show’s fashions highlight the day to day dressing we’ve lost.  The public obsession with Mad Men has bled in to trying in some small way to relive it. We can’t go back in time, but at least we can dress like we did.

Links referenced: Lauren Ward, “Mad Men,” Nylon Magazine, August 2010, 202, Mad Men Joan Harris Dress, Ebay, Mad Men Betty Draper Dress, Ebay, David Colman, “Dressing for Success, Again,” New York Times, December 16, 2009.

It's All About the Look

If you're like us, your fascination with Mad Men is not based only upon characters and story-lines. Sure, we all love the office-sex dynamic, Don's mysterious past, and that what's-going-to-
happen-next feeling every time Sal's homosexuality is insinuated. But, what we really love to see
is what they’re all wearing. The women wear form-fitting (yet classy) dresses with heels and are
always impeccable. Even Betty looks like the perfect wife after a long day of taking care of the
kids or spending a morning riding at the stables. Plenty of choices are offered for the women
who want to style themselves after the 1960’s. However, it has always been my opinion that one
can never have too much access to information (or shopping!) at their fingertips. So, in honor of
the costume designers of Mad Men, my blog post is dedicated to where to find the best 1960’s styled clothing. My favorite pieces have always been available at ModCloth.com and JCrew.
ModCloth sells a variety of retro clothing though their dresses are the most notable. JCrew has
also been offering Jackie cardigans (as in Jackie O) and Minnie pants, which are reminiscent of
Audrey Hepburn. Here, at a fellow Mad Men blog, women can find more that will remind them
of our favorite women on television. For more on women’s fashion, also click here to
check out Elle’s take on Mad Men with Janie Bryant, Mad Men’s costume designer.

Now, let us not forget the men, for what would the 1960s be without the dashing debonair men
that make up Sterling Cooper’s agency. Like their female counterparts, the men always appear
pristine in their tailored suits. And, who doesn’t adore the beloved hats that were once a sign of a
well-groomed, chivalrous man? Unfortunately, ladies, we can only strive to mimic the style of
the 1960s. Men, on the other hand, are finally able to dress like their television heroes. As Dave
Itzkoff advertised in The New York Times, men can finally “be as Dapper as Draper.” The suit,
sold here by Brooks Brothers, is styled after the tailoring of the 1960s as seen on Don Draper and
Roger Sterling. The suit was also designed by Janie Bryant, the show’s creator. The suit debuted
last fall but is still available online. I will warn you, it comes at a hefty price.

Sources Cited: Itzkoff, Dave. “Be as Dapper as Draper in Your Own ‘Mad Men’ Suit.” The New York Times. 14 Oct. 2009. Web. 22 Apr. 2010.

In Episode 6 of Season 1 of Mad Men, Sterling Cooper is working on the Belle Jolie lipstick account. In one particular scene, the secretaries have been led into a room to try out different shades of lipstick while the men watch from behind a one-way mirror. The transition into the scene is noteworthy, as the account executives say they cannot understand the women (“they don’t speak moron”) and refer to them as chickens. This scene is stunning both visually through the costuming and in the gender roles that are expressed during the scene.

The costuming is truly effective in this scene because it immediately tells the audience about each character. The woman from the research department, Dr. Greta Guttman (Gordana Rashovich), who has a “man’s” job, is wearing a masculine grey suit and grey shirt, the manliest wardrobe for any of the female characters. From previous episodes, the audience knows that this woman is not accepted by the men or by the other women. She, like her costume, is somewhere in between what was expected in the gender roles of a man and a woman in the workplace of the 1960s. Her palate of grey is just as boring as she is to all of the other characters.

http://www.madmenepisodes.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/episode-6.jpg

Joan (Christina Hendricks) stands in stark contrast, wearing a vivid red dress that shows off her feminine curves, as well as highlighting her bold character. Red is associated with passion, desire and lust which perfectly fits Joan’s use of her sexuality in the workplace. When wearing red, all heads turn to Joan, her usually eye-catching look taken to extreme. Red also symbolizes power. Joan’s power over the other women is very clearly shown in this scene because they all look to Joan before answering the researcher’s questions, as though they are seeking her approval.

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Peggy (Elizabeth Moss), dressed in a conservative and juvenile outfit, does not participate with the other women in trying on many shades of lipstick. Her brown dress is rather boring compared to the other secretaries’ pastel outfits. Brown traditionally denotes masculine qualities, and its frequent use in her wardrobe foreshadows her future rise to a masculine job. Also the color of the earth, brown implies genuineness and wholesomeness. Peggy is seen as a very naïve girl, still genuine in comparison to the people she works with. The styling of Peggy’s dress is oddly matronly and stiff with a very high neckline, letting the audience know she isn’t using her sexuality to advance in the workplace. Clearly Peggy is set to contrast Joan, both in personality and costume.

The wardrobe for the women of Sterling Cooper, while stunning and era appropriate, helps progress the narrative by telling the audience more about the characters. The color and styling of each costume gives further understanding of the complexities of each character. Each of these women’s roles in the workplace is typified by her costuming.